Melbourne Day II

We are back at our hotel after a busy day around Fitzroy, a suburb just to the north of the CBD.

This morning we slept in a bit (9:00ish) and had brekkie at the hotel before heading north through the city to the Queen Victoria Markets.  We walked through the enclosed food markets and out to the seemingly endless array of outdoor stalls under warehouse like roofs which went on for blocks.  Anything and everything imaginable was being sold at the markets, and the scale was astounding – much, much bigger than Paddy’s in Sydney.

After we had our fill of perusing the market, we continued northward through Carlton to check out a building I had recently read about in an architectural journal. Pixel, a tiny new office development on the corner of a site being redeveloped from the old Coopers Brewery, has been billed as the most sustainable building ever built.  Admittedly, there are many flaws in the gauging of what makes a building sustainable, but it does tick most every mark.  However, the building was ugly as, and I don’t think it does a very good job at relating to the surroundings or attempting to make sustainable architecture seem appealing.

From Pixel we turned east as we began to head to Fitzroy, a trendy suburb of Melbourne where we were to meet two of Amanda’s friends for lunch.  On the way, we stumbled upon the Piazza Italia at the heart of the decidedly Italian neighbourhood.  I took particular interest in the plaza as the most famous piece of post-modern architecture (and one of the most devisive) in New Orleans is Charles Moore’s Piazza d’Itlalia.  After I snapped a few pictures and had tried out the human sundial, we continued east to a large park which divides Carlton from Fitzroy and is home to the Melbourne Museum.  Not one to pass up free cultural experiences, we decided to postpone lunch a bit and take a detour through the museum

The museum was pretty good (some parts more so than others).  I particularly enjoyed the recreated Victorian rainforest within a large atrium, as well as the exhibits about the history of Melbourne.  We also wandered through the exhibit on the human brain and one on evolution, before heading out for our late lunch.

We were to meet Amanda’s friends on Brunswick Street, the main road through Fitzroy, which was just a few blocks away from the museum.  As soon as we got on the street, which has trams running in mixed traffic (unlike in the CBD where they run in the ‘fairway’, their word for a median or neutral ground for New Orleanians), you could feel the bohemian, edgy vibe.  I was instantly transported back to Portland, OR, and as we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening on the street the feeling was only deepened.

For lunch we met at Little Creatures Dining Hall, a large warehouse turned restaurant and drinking establishment and run by Little Creatures brewery, a popular Australian craft brew house.  We spent the better part of two hours chatting and enjoying lunch and a round or two of drinks.  I have enjoyed Little Creatures since I first tried it down here, but especially enjoyed the chance to try their special winter ale – a thick, dark ale with tones of allspice and nutmeg – which was delicious.

A chorizo frittata at Little Creatures Dining Hall.

We parted way after 3:00, and Amanda and I wandered up and down Brunswick, popping in and out of odd little shops and market spaces including the Rose Street Artist’s Market, where we saw quite a few unique pieces of art.

A book Amanda came across at a used bookstore on Brunswick Street.

A bacon and egg scarf at a shop on Brunswick Street.

As the shops began to close we headed to Naked for Satan, a place recommended by Jimmy, that is known for pinxtos (little pieces of bread topped with various things) and incredible infused vodkas.  The atmosphere was fantastic, and we enjoyed trying a few of their vodkas.  Our favourites were the chilli & ginger and the strawberry & mint.

Pots and infused vodka at Naked for Satan.

The walking around had made us quite hungry, and after our libations we walked across the street to Vegie Bar for dinner. http://www.vegiebar.com.au/. An all vegetarian / vegan restaurant, we were lucky to get a seat before a line formed out the door.  I really enjoyed the ‘mostly greens’ (spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, mushrooms, bok choy) with tamari and rice, and rice balls which we split as an entrée (used as appetizer in Australia).

Entree of rice balls at Vegie Bar.

My main of 'mostly greens' at Vegie Bar.

Our last stop on Brunswick Street, after being there for seven hours, was Cider House.  Just as the name implies, they sell a myriad of ciders, for which I have a penchant. After a pot there (temperance is a virtue), we headed south back toward the city, past Parliament and the regal Princess’ Theatre.

To finish up the night in the city, we decided to go quite classy.  At the recommendation of a friend, and a guide book, we went to 1806, a swanky cocktail bar whose menu takes you through the history of the cocktail. http://www.1806.com.au/.  We had a very leisurely time reading through the thorough menu, and I ended up having a 20^th Century (1936) and a Tom and Jerry (1886).  Amanda went with the Sapphire Cilantro (1999) and the Espresso Martini (1996) – admittedly she made the better choices, though I couldn’t pass up a chance to try something different!

Word of the day:

pot – to further complicate the already ludicrous naming and sizing of drinking vessels in Australia (which I explained in a post a few months back –middy, schmiddy, and schooner), the words vary by state!  In Victoria (the state Melbourne is in), the sizes are referred to as pony  - 5oz, pot – 10oz, and pint – which can range anywhere from 15-20oz, depending on the bar. Ordering a beer in Australia is a lot more difficult than it should be!